CNC Reviews: Emilio De La Morena AW15

Exploring Pablo Picasso’s Harlequin…

Emilio de la Morena’s Autumn Winter 2015 collection took inspiration from his favoured world of arts, with clear reference to the Pablo Picasso Harlequin. Incorporating his trademark soft materials (Morenahas been using them ever since his debut collection in 2007) – this season he opted for a combination of stretch velvets and bright metallic jerseys.

The all-black ensembles with oversized collars andbrocade embroidered coats were indeed the show stoppers; as were the bronze andsteel shimmery harlequin patterned structured knee-length dresses. Showcasing a varied silhouette, Morena’s collectionoffered a certain amount of versatility, even though his focus seemed to be eveningwear.

It cannot be denied that Morena’s show was in extremecontrast to the more minimal paired down collections from other Autumn Winter2015 designers. So perhaps Morena’s runway offering was just a case of using toomany extremes and excesses – transparent dresses made from many materials including laces, velvets and jerseys finished with parades of tiny bells were miles away from the examples of “sophistication” and “glamour” seen on runways elsewhere.

Whether you like the collection or not, hats off to Morena for using the work of 2015 Hyères Fashion and Photography Prize winner Polly Tootal, which made the boldest of statements for his staging and backdrop…after the show the 140 guests were even lucky enough to leave with a signed hard copy of the backdrop photo.