London Fashion Week Spotlight: Era of Timeless Futurism
MA luxury student, Chloé Janssen, reflects on contemporary themes, trends, and commentary from independent designers during London Fashion Week A/W 23.
All eyes turned to London this month as fashion houses showcase their autumn/winter 2023 ready-to-wear collections. Third in line behind Copenhagen and New York, London designers were tasked with presenting fresh creations and considering gender fluidity, sustainability, representation and an uncertain global economy.
While the highly anticipated debut of Daniel Lee’s Burberry, the expectedly outlandish presentation from JW Anderson, and the star-studded Moncler mega-event may be dominating your fashion news feed, here are three shows you may have missed.
Helen Anthony
The phrase ‘eccentric essentialism’ can be used to sum up Helen Anthony’s A/W 23 collection. The London fashion house’s latest show merged playful design with Saville Row standard tailoring to create a unique homage to British Heritage.
The theatrical and whimsical venue at Park Row in the heart of Piccadilly matched the energy of the brand’s designer, Naeem Anthony. Since launching in 2014, Anthony has set out to create bold designs for a modern demographic of fluid consumers. This collection accomplished that mission, carrying a strong sense of androgyny, individual expression, and exquisite tailoring. The full collection can be viewed here.
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Karoline Vitto
Industry demands for body diversity and inclusion are met with Karoline Vitto’s unique brand proposition. Since launching in 2020, the namesake label has been on a mission to challenge industry standards. Held in East London’s Truman Brewery the show featured only curve and plus-sized models. This is a sigh of relief after years of demand for representation on the runway.
As a part of Fashion East, Karoline Vitto’s latest collection pushed boundaries of seduction while being utilitarian. The collection was contrived in a circular model, using dead stock LVMH Maison fabrics from their sourcing partner, Nona Source. Vitto incorporated playfulness, bright colours, metals and simple patterns into beautiful garments that accentuated and celebrated the curves of the female body.
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PRONOUNCE
In London’s Regent Quarter District, Chinese brand, PRONOUNCE showcased a collection that paid homage to ancient Chinese communication methods through subtle inscribed shells, oracle bones and knotting notes. Shanghai based Creative Directors Yushan Li and Jun Zhou brought pieces to life through innovative use of oversized outerwear, sharp tailoring, fine knitwear and soft metallic elements.
The men and womenswear in the collection were interchangeable, creating complete fluidity throughout. The design duo succeed in giving an elevated look to baggy trousers and chunky sweaters, resulting in a perfect balance of fun and function.
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Looking Forward
London is unique in its equal presence of emergence and heritage. This season emphasised youth subcultures, climate conscious practice, avant-garde presentation, fluctuating gender norms, digital integration and ageless innovation that is uniquely British. As Milan Fashion Week commences, and Paris follows closely behind, it will be compelling to compare and contrast the role of London’s unique identity in fashion futures and trend formation.
By Chloé Janssen, MA Luxury Brand Strategy & Business