Nothing says “Good Morning” like the opening show at London Fashion Week.
It’s 9.30am and the well-dressed guests dash to their seats, as the lights dim and the mood becomes anticipatory. The excited chatter hushes as theatrical music begins to flood the room, and the first lookstrides onto the runway: this is Jackie JS. Lee, AW 15.
The collection embodies what J JS. Lee does best:sharp, sleek sophistication. Inspired by ‘shadows of grey’, monochromatic tones were featured heavily throughout. The collection was sentimental for Jackie, who revisited her childhood in Korea throughout the design process. Her mothers sewing proved to be particularly significant for her, and family photos personified each look. Jackie stated “I’d like to describe this woman as a bit different and on the eccentric side. She has tomboyish characteristics but as a woman she has a feminine sensitivity, which she brings to her work.”
Easing us in with a crop of monochrome, minimal and somewhat expected looks, the collection quickly took a directional turn through the use of finely detailed geometric patterns, colour pops and a whole lot of fluff.
Jackie collaborated on the collection with the heritage fabric brand ‘Hainsworth’, creating juxtaposition between clean lines and thick, oversized knits. Though there was an initial masculinity in the slouchy cuts of many key pieces, femininity was unveiled through clever styling and whimsical detail, resulting in an androgynous elegance.
It was the use of Mongolian wool that really stole the show, a sleeveless dress made entirely of pastel peach fluff inducing a collective sigh of lust from the audience. The gathered elastic stitching details used to define waists and necklines was also notable, adding a playful elegance to the looks. The childlike, disheveled hair of the models related back to the nostalgic undertones of the collection, whilst toning down any over-refinement. Bursts of yellow and pink complemented the generally de-saturated palette, a subtle homage to the joyful colours of Jackie’s childhood. These subtle details allowed the collection to communicate a clear journey full of vibrant memories, the designer sharing her story with us.
Seizing the attention of the fashion elite from the beginning of her career, Jackie’s transition from NewGen talent to established designer is almost complete. She continues to quietly stand her ground in the industry through the consistency of her collections; aspirational but wearable, tailored but relaxed, J JS. Lee may not break the rules, but she knows what she does well and she does it to perfection. AW15 was no exception, and was arguably her strongest collection to date.