Condé Nast Students Attend Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton Debut Screening
The moment we’ve all been waiting for, Pharrell Williams’ first collection as Men’s Creative Director at Louis Vuitton debuted in Paris on 20th June 2023 with the SS24 collection. A much talked about moment, MA Luxury Brand Strategy & Business student, Kevin De Silva reports on the show, the appointment of Pharell Williams and what this means for luxury fashion…
Louis Vuitton SS24
The show was set in the heart of Paris on the Pont Neuf overlooking the Seine. This was the most highly anticipated fashion event of the season, as it offered a preview at the future of the luxury fashion house. In amongst the glittering attendance of some of HipHop’s biggest stars and a surprise concert from Pharrell Williams and Jay Z recreating their 2003 hit – Frontin, a handful of Condé Nast students from our BA and MA courses were in attendance at the official Louis Vuitton London live streamed screening held at Koko nightclub in Camden, London, alongside other students from the Capital’s highly rated Arts universities and Louis Vuitton’s top clients, complete with Louis Vuitton branded popcorn and a DJ.
“The Louis Vuitton Men’s SS24 show viewing party was a fantastic experience that I was privileged enough to attend thanks to the College. Not only was Pharrell’s debut with the brand outstanding, but the night was a great opportunity for us all to socialise and meet industry creatives.” Sophie Rogan on the BA Fashion Communication course commented, continuing, “As a student who really enjoys branding and marketing modules, this event also gave me great insight in terms of luxury brand event management. I’d like to extend my gratitude to Eva from Louis Vuitton for having us!”
BA Fashion Communication student, Charlotte Coates said of the event, “The setting of KOKO Club was re-dressed in a far chicer LV monogram on their entertainment screens. On arrival we were handed golden drinks tokens, [and] enjoyed a couple of glasses of wine as the sun set, on the balcony overlooking a busy Camden street. In this time we had the opportunity to network with masters students from a variety of local arts universities. Many attendants were even wearing their own designs which was a treat to ask them about the thought processes behind their designs.”
Fashion and Entertainment Collide
Meanwhile in Paris, the fashion show opened with a model sporting a boxy, neutral-coloured suit jacket with tailored shorts, setting the tone for the show amongst a live orchestra. As the show progressed, the looks became increasingly varied and complex, yet always retaining their wearability. Precisely tailored garments stood in contrast to looser, more relaxed silhouettes.
Pearls featured juxtaposed with bold chains, reminiscent of Williams style. However, the primary focus of the collection was the reinterpretation of the renowned Damier print, which William had hinted previously in the pre-show interviews and also showcased in his recent Louis Vuitton campaign featuring Rihanna, revealed in early June 2023. Taking inspiration from the iconic ‘Damier’ check, Williams’ creativity played with Louis Vuitton’s historical pattern transforming it into a pixelated camo across workwear inspired garments – giving the moniker of ’the Damouflage’ to it.
“The show was the perfect balance of fashion, entertainment, and innovation. Pharrell set a high bar for not only his time at Louis Vuitton, but also put the pressure on other fashion houses to step up to the plate” said Chloé Janssen a student on the MA Luxury Brand Strategy & Business
“I knew that I wanted to really lean into the Damier, something that hadn’t had such a great connection in it, and we did so by using the Damier as a platform and as a new artistic discipline, and we have some really interesting expressions” – Pharrell Williams for WWD
Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring-Summer 2024 Collection
In addition to the Rihanna campaign unveiled a few days prior to the show in Paris, bags were also a focal point to the show, showcasing a wide range of sizes and styles. From compact crossbody bags to sizable duffels and even enormous trunks that required actual driving down the runway, the collection celebrated the art of bag design taking it back to its roots as a luggage makers. As we know, rather than using the fashion houses’ popular monogram canvas, Williams’ opted for Louis Vuitton’s signature epi leather. Having previously served as an ambassador for Chanel’s Gabrielle bag, Williams said in the same WWD interview, “I knew I wanted to make my presence known in bags.”
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Pharrell Williams’ Future at Louis Vuitton
Pharrell Williams brings a strong sense of contemporary relevance and cultural influence on Louis Vuitton. As a renowned musician, producer, and fashion icon, Pharrell’s artistic vision aligns with Louis Vuitton’s desire to connect with a younger and more diverse audience. Williams’ unique personal style and creativity make him an ideal collaborator for Louis Vuitton – his ability to blend high fashion with streetwear resonates with the evolving preferences of modern consumers.
The appointment of Williams has garnered much international chatter on whether the famous musician is cut out to be the head of a fashion house, with many seeing it as LVMH looking for easy publicity, whilst others heralded the greater creative achievements of the music producer, rapper, singer, songwriter, and fashion ambassador. One instagram netizen, @crookedchristian offered a balanced opinion on Business of Fashion’s post stating, “I see the Pharell era as a transition period for LV. Virgil’s reign at the brand was a hit success, but was tragically cut off far too early. People want more LV from Virgil, and Pharrell is one of the few people who can accomplish that. The two were extremely close as a creative contemporaries and speak a similar design language…He’s there to finish what Virgil started and carry that torch until the brand is truly ready for another major shift.”
Williams’ has already built an impressive reputation as a versatile talent in both the music and fashion industries. This includes his successful collaboration with Japanese artist Nigo on the Billionaire Boys Club line, as well as his creative contributions to Chanel. Undoubtedly, he has brought all elements of his diverse background to his role in shaping Louis Vuitton menswear.
Given his visionary approach, it is safe to assure that the focus may not solely be on intricate apparel design. Instead, we can expect a strong emphasis on statement accessories, clever graphics, recognisable motifs, a notable presence of celebrities, and an integration of music and performance. The overarching goal is to create a holistic experience, an accomplishment he convincingly demonstrated during his debut.
Words by Kevin De Silva – MA Luxury Brand Strategy & Business
Images via Sophie Rogan, BA Fashion Communication & Industry Practice
Edited by Hannah Shakir